24 Hours in Luang Prabang 
February 2, 2012
I had a tiny bit of time between lnna's departure and when I needed to get to Hanoi for the bike trip, so I did a 28 hour stopover in Luang Prabang. What an incredibly charming place, my visit was too sHort, but I am glad I got a taste of what will definitely be on a future itinerary.

Booked a room in a great guesthouse in the city center, a block from the Mekong and a block from the markets. It was run by a Belgian-Lao couple and their two children. Spacious room with shared bath and great balcony to do yoga on looking across rooftops and the surrounding hillside.

Luang Prabang is the former capital of Laos, now a Unesco World Heritage Site with lots of French colonial architecture, narrow streets, river views and lots and lots and lots of wats. Walking through the streets you pass numerous saffron clad monks going about their day. The central city is a peninsula, between the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers. It's certainly not a party destination... It keeps a rhythm of early nights and early mornings.

Spent my first day just wandering on foot and trying to resist shopping for handicrafts and silver jewelry. Ate a Luang Prebang salad, influenced by the French with a mayonnaise type dressing, along with watercress, lettuces, hard boiled egg and tomato. Enjoyed that with sticky rice at a side walk cafe, watching the tourists meander by, the majority being Asian.

It has been a few days since my last massage so after a few hours of wandering, treated myself to a foot massage, which perhaps wasn't the best idea before climbing to the top of the central stupa topped hill called Phu Si (pronounced pussy)! Oily feet and flip flops makes for a precarious climb on this 100m tall hill with over 400 steps. Made it to the top for great city views and a gorgeous sunset.

My reserve against shopping failed miserably during the extensive night market. I wasn't concerned with spending money, rather giving up valuable suitcase real estate. It was by the far the calmest market I have been to on this trip; no touts, just red illuminated tents, setting off a soft glow on pants, bags, scarves, and bedding. Bought a Hmong appliqué duvet cover and pillow set, my grandmother wold have loved it!

Rose before dawn to observe "Tak Bat" the daily monks alms procession. It is a quiet meditative ceremony where monks demonstrate their vows of poverty and humility, and Buddhists gain spiritual merit by the act of respectful giving (typically small balls of sticky rice). Left the guesthouse in the pitch dark, and found my way to the local Wat where we watched until the sky started to lighten.

Delicious breakfast and then rented a bicycle for the day, and explored the town. Spent a while at Wat Xiang Thong, probably the most famous in LP which is considered a classic of local design. Intricate mosaics, one of the Tree of Life. The main building was being restored. No scaffolding, no hard hats, no harnesses. Just young monks in saffron robes, sitting at the top, applying gold leaf!
  • Royal Palace Museum  Canon Powershot Sd750 5.8 - 17.4 Mm
    Royal Palace Museum
  • Royal Palace Museum  Canon Powershot Sd750 5.8 - 17.4 Mm
    Royal Palace Museum
  • Royal Palace Museum  Canon Powershot Sd750 5.8 - 17.4 Mm
    Royal Palace Museum
  • Th Sisavangvong (main street?)  Canon Powershot Sd750 5.8 - 17.4 Mm
    Th Sisavangvong (main street?)
  • LP wandering  Canon Powershot Sd750 5.8 - 17.4 Mm
    LP wandering
  • LP wandering  Canon Powershot Sd750 5.8 - 17.4 Mm
    LP wandering
  • LP wandering  Canon Powershot Sd750 5.8 - 17.4 Mm
    LP wandering
  • Royal Palace Museum  Canon Powershot Sd750 5.8 - 17.4 Mm
    Royal Palace Museum
  • Phu Si steps  Canon Powershot Sd750 5.8 - 17.4 Mm
    Phu Si steps
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