Another early morning departure before dawn. This time for a 30km drive to watch the sunrise over Banteay Srei, a Hindu Temple dedicated to Shiva. It was the oldest temple we saw on the trip, pre-dating Angkor Wat, built in the mid 900s. Constructed of pink stone, it is known for its intricate carvings and excellent preservation. Sometimes referred to as the 'Citadel of Women' it is believed to have been built by women, as the amazing detail of the carvings is thought to be too fine to have been done by a man. The three central towers were guarded by statues of Hanuman, the monkey-headed god. Many of the originals had been stolen (damn tomb raiders!) with replicas in their place.

Ta was rushing us along a bit, which we found strange. I know we were trying to get there before the crowds arrived but the sun was still low in the sky and the parking lot empty. When we arrived at the central sanctuary, we found out why; it was blocked off by rope barriers, still affording an excellent view but $2 per person in the pocket of the security guards allowed VIP access to the inner spaces. It felt a bit devious to be crawling around this ancient ruin in the prohibited zone, but it was amazing! We were alerted when another group was coming through, and filed back to the approved pathways and the rope barrier was quickly replaced. As if it never happened.

Back to the hotel for breakfast and pack and then we spent our final afternoon in Cambodia visiting the floating village of Chong Kneas located on Tonle Sap Lake. Tonle Sap is the largest freshwater lake in South East Asia and is unique in that the flow reverses direction throughout the year due to the monsoon season and it expands/contracts between 3000 and 16000 square-km in area! The village actually follows the edge of the lake and moves 5-6 times a year. It was really interesting, there was an entire city with all its functions on the water. Floating houses, groceries, schools, basketball courts, restaurants and temples. Even floating gardens, fish farms, alligator farms and pig farms! The water was a deep brown, sanitary conditions seemed terrible. A true example of water being the cycle of life... Used for drinking, bathing, farming, fishing, navigating and pooping.