Left Jakarta to go to Tigadolok on the way to Jongginihuta which is where Lina’s family lives in Sumatra. The airport is great because the wind blows through the windows and you can hear the plane engines. Boarding our plane we walk from the terminal over the tarmac to steps to the plane. 2 hour flight not bad but the madness of the Medan airport luggage “carousel” is still amazing to me. 4 flights land at nearly the same time and everyone’s luggage is run down a one way belt where nearly half of Indonesia is waiting for its luggage and jockeying for position. Lina got a cart and I managed to get our things.

We took the Paradek taxi service from Medan to Siantar where Lina was born which took over 3 hours. We stopped at a Dodol stand to buy this favorite Indonesian holiday candy for the family. We also stopped at this great Padang restaurant called Bahagia (Happy). It is run by a muslim family and is an oddly modern restaurant with traditional flair. In one section the tables are set about a foot off the floor and you sit on pillows with your feet hanging down a hole under the table. Very cool. The markisa drink was like strawberry juice with a little more flavor and zing. Padang restaurants they lay out a number of plates of food and it is your job to pick which you want to eat. I had chicken and added the cassava leaf sauce along with the sweet and spicy sauce for dipping.

The 3 hour taxi ride to Siantar was as I remembered only without the fear of my first trip. In Indonesia the traffic lines in the road are merely suggestions. Our driver like most choses to pass cars and motorcycles despite oncoming traffic which includes large trucks and vans. I filmed a few of these but the best one I missed on tape. He passes 4 cars on a blind curve and barely cuts back in after seeing a large truck rounding the curve about 50 feet in front of us. This driver was good though. The one taking us back on the return trip seemed intent to get back as fast as possible no matter what the cost just because Lina told him not to smoke while driving. Smoking kills, fortunately not us – this time.

We arrived in Siantar and met our nieces Helen, Tati, and Rini. Lina had called them on the cell and set up a meeting place. Helen joined me in the car while Lina and the others went to the bakery and ATM. It is Hadrian’s birthday so they got cake. Helen struggles with English but did very well and was very nice spending time catching up. Tati joined us next and was very excited to practice her English and does very well. She asked a million questions especially about Uncle Handsome (which is my brother Hank for those who do not know). At this point my protection detail started in full. My nieces took care of me the entire time I was in the village. They fed me, walked me, made sure I did not get hurt, warned me about spicy food. They made me feel like a king which I must say truly is great. Our one hour ride from Siantar to Tigadolok was wet. It started to rain as soon as the girls got in the Toyota Kijang (SE Asian model only). It poured buckets and the road to Tigadolok is uphill for the first 8-10 miles leaving Siantar. Siantar was starting to get underwater and many places in the road were nearly 12-15 inches deep with water washing over the road. It rushed down the culverts on both sides and would wash over the road in a number of places. In these places even the motorcycle drivers would drive or push their bikes through the wash despite their back tires sliding out from under them. This road is lined for nearly 100 miles with red and yellow lilies which was cool but did not detract from the fact the rain was so heavy. It took over an hour to reach Jongginihuta and the rain started to let up. We still had to ford a stream that crossed the road and watched several cars fail and back up. Our driver was determined to get home and he just plowed through it with success.

We arrived and were greeted by Lina’s sister Risma who hugged me and helped us in. She served us a spicy chicken and rice dinner and we crashed early. I wake up just like last visit at 5AM to the sound of the rooster crowing and chickens clucking and fighting. Chickens are everywhere and I had to remind myself that some of them I will be eating soon. Woo hoo! Breakfast was made by Rini for us and she made Lapat and warm chocolate milk. Lapat is sweet rice steamed in banana leaves with a center of gula merah, brown sugar.

My younger nieces Feby and Sabathini took me for a walk to the rice fields and they were very sweet protecting me by holding my hands and guiding me down the road. I got a few pictures of the rice fields in the early morning. They both saw a snake when I asked them to pose for a picture and they were not bothered by it until I walked near it then they nearly tackled me to get me away from it. Looked like a garter snake to me but I am not a snake doctor. After we got back Feby who is studying nursing took my blood pressure and offered to give me an “injection” of vitamins. She is quite diligent. Lina and I toured the village visiting all of her family – nearly all the village it seems is related. All were impressed I could speak a little Indonesian, and were more impressed I knew some Batak. Visiting one of Lina’s aunts they all laughed when I was asked if I knew Batak and I said “Among oy among taboonay” which roughly translates to “Oh my god that is delicious”. That is all I know but it rocks the house every time I say it (-: They all roll on the floor which is great. While at this aunt’s house I met a couple of the other village ladies all of whom are characters. One was very friendly and laughed a lot. After we left we found her across the street at the ‘mens hangout’ where men play chess during the heat of the day. I was introduced by her and soon I was friends with all of the guys too. Lot of questions about Obama, he is a folk hero in Indo because of his childhood spent in Indo. One of the guys said I looked like Obama but I did not have the heart to tell him we are not related.

In the afternoon since the rain had shut off the electricity, and the water pump, the girls (Rini and Sabathini) took Lina and I to the stream to swim (wash up). This was a highlight for me. The stream is a palm forest where the trees have ferns growing out of their trunks. The trees over hang the stream as do all sorts of other plants. The stream is down the embankment from a large rice field which had a cement trough running the length of it moving water down to the next fields. The stream was beautiful. The water was cool but not cold. The ladies washed up all covered up in very colorful wraps. I opted for my surf trunks. We came back the next day but this time my stardom in the area had reached a peak. We were followed by about 12 children because I was their General (Lina’s idea). They followed me everywhere and that afternoon was amazing as the family and I tried to go to swim this troop of boys and girls followed and then took over the cement trough and used it as a waterslide all the time yelling “Mister” at me and posing for pix. I realized that if I was a kid again this place would be the best place to live ever. Everything is edible and nothing but fun things to do all around. We returned to the house and after putting things away the Rini and Tiny brought us to the backyard and we picked chocolate from the trees there. I was taught to open the goard by cracking it against a tree after brushing the ants off. Inside is the chocolate seeds which are about the sizes of acorns but covered in white fleshy meat. The chocolate taste we know in the USA is not what these taste like. We get the end product but miss one of the best parts – the meat. It is a very sweet and delicious fruit. Probably more healthy for me too. That was an education.

We went to Siantar for lunch the next day and dropped Feby off to go back to nursing school. We had lunch at a place on the second floor of the Sayang restaurant. We met Butet there too and even though she is shy she was nice enough to talk with me. We left the next day with Lina’s sister Risma and her daughters Sabathini (15) and Rini (22) to go to Danau (Lake) Toba. Lake Toba is higher in the mountains and cooler. The lake is the worlds largest lake in the center of a “dormant” volcano. 100,000 years ago it blew its top and caused an ice age leaving a crater that is now Lake Toba. This used to be a popular vacation spot for European and Australian tourists but has been off the map for decades. They now all go to Phuket or other beach resorts. The best hotel is reported to be the Carolina Hotel so we had reservations there. We took the ferry from Parapat to Tuk-tuk on Samosir Island in the middle of the lake where the hotel is. The views of the lake and cliffs surrounding it are great. The restaurant takes good advantage of the views. Although the place is popular with families and backpackers it is not a 4 star accommodation. Regardless I really enjoyed the visit because Samosir is where Lina’s family originated from and her aunt still lives there. The lake is nearly 60 miles long. On the small island we were on it took nearly an hour to go about a quarter way around it. We visited the stone chairs in Ambarita used by the Batak rulers to discuss and hold court. If someone was bad enough (usually an enemy) there was a sacrifice table where they were beheaded. The guide says that cannibalism was practiced in order to gain the strength and wisdom of your enemy after slaying him.

We stopped at the hot springs in Pangururan which were warm as advertised. Then we visited Tomok to see the burial site of the king before returning to the hotel.We had visited Lina’s aunt who invited us for Sunday dinner but since we were leaving at noon she offered to serve breakfast. We woke and all went swimming at sunrise in Lake Toba. Then we got there at 9 and I noticed that only one of the two chickens that were fighting the prior day was in the yard. Lina’s aunt served us a delicious fresh chicken and sambal breakfast. I was asked if I would accept the aunt as my adopted mother and change my name. I must note for those unfamiliar with Batak tradition that normally there is a large process I would go through to be found acceptable to the family and various parties and payments held and made. Since Lina and I did not go through this process I was now being offered another way of being accepted. I did. Due to this I am now semi-officially “Harry Napitu”. In Batak culture my last name bites the dust upon marrying my wife. (-: She prayed for us and wrapped us in the Ulos.

The ferry ride back was okay but the Paradek taxi back to Tigadolok to drop off Risma and the girls was wild. The driver was nuts. Took a lot of risks and drove like he had to pee and needed to cover 100 miles to get to the next rest area. After dropping them off and wishing Rini and Sabathini well the driver took us back to Medan. Visiting the village is one of the best parts of the trip for me and I am always sorry to leave.

We spent the night in the Tiara hotel which was great with a hot shower and visited the mall. The flight to Lombok was a two leg journey. First was uneventful except for losing my ATM card in the airport somewhere. Second leg started out interesting. On take off from Jakarta to Lombok the pilot slammed on the brakes on take off just as we were about to lift off. We managed to stop short of the rice fields at the end of the runway. Evidently the luggage compartment door had come open while we were taking off. I was sure my bag was still in Jakarta in the weeds until I saw it on the belt in Lombok. The Alang-alang hotel where we are staying was recommended by our friend Dewi. It is a great choice. Our cabana is pool side and a few steps from the restaurant and beach. We can hear the waves tonight as we are going to sleep. Once again it rained upon our arrival but we do not care since the rain passes quickly here. We swam in the pool had a great dinner and I am looking forward to touring the island and visiting the waterfalls tomorrow.