City of Angels 
January 31, 2012
Arrived in Bangkok from a quick domestic flight from Phuket. Time to get used to noise, energy, smog, hustle and bustle. We had booked a hotel in the modern center near the Centralworld / Rachaprasong areas and found ourselves in the midst of Thai Sunday shopping extravaganza! Malls, malls and more malls full of trendy teenagers and fashionistas. Each advertising as bigger, more amenities, more restaurants, etc. and surrounded by the malls are little market stalls with knockoffs of everything to be found within. It's pretty wild.

Bangkok is called Krung Thep, or "City of Angels" and can be divided into two main parts, the old city west of the train station, and modern city to the east. With only two days here, we decided to spend today around the modern city. Our hotel, the Amari Watergate has a 1980s corporate appeal with huge entry atrium and nice mid-level pool and roof deck. Similar to many other asian cities I've been to, when there's one face of glamour, the non-glamour is close by. Looking across the pool deck, it had lovely landscaping and views of other hotel roof deck pools on one side, and slums off the other.

After a step into mall culture to check out if there were any Thai-specific treats at Starbucks, we walked to the Jim Thompson House Museum which was around 40 minutes away. Streetmeats, tuk-tuks, elaborate sky-bridges, homages to the king and canals were encountered along the way. Inna was a novelty with her long legs and blond hair and stopped for pictures, haha. Passed the contemporary art museum with street-side sculpture which made for some fun photos, will have to check it out when I am back on my way home later in the month.

The Jim Thompson House (and associated mystery) was a great visit. Located on a long narrow soi off of a main road and backing onto the klong (canal), it feels like a secret of the neighborhood. Jim Thompson was an expat living in Bangkok after WWII who had a background in architecture and was also a former military intelligence officer. He fell in love with Thailand and constructed a gorgeous teak house with gardens, a koi pond, Asian art and textiles. He's also was intrigued by the hand-weaving of Thai silks, and is credited for reviving the industry. He mysteriously disappeared while on holiday in Malaysia in 1967, which remains unsolved to this day (and engaged Inna and I on a lengthy Wikipedia search later that night).

Explored further east down Sukumvit road for dinner. A friend's recommendation (thanks Anne!) guided us to a great Japanese restaurant called "In the Mood for Love" which aesthetically was inspired by the Wan Kar Wai film which took place in 1960s Hong Kong. I love his films, so was interested in the connection - they also have another one called 2046, which is the sequel to the film. Since we were in the neighborhood, we decided to check out Soi Cowboy, one of the many red light districts in Bangkok. Named after an American airman who opened a bar there in the 70s and often wore a cowboy hat, it's a relatively short street packed with over 40 bars, bar-girls who look way too young and desperate, kathoeys (who I am fascinated with), and a majority of gross 50 year old white guys - yuk! We pretty much speed walked our way through, were offered drinks and ping long shows, but declined and opted instead to head home and read up on the Jim Thompson mystery.
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